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CAPE COD IN THE SPRING:
AMERICA WITH THE VOLUME TURNED DOWN
Story and photography
by Margaret & Eric Anderson
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Cape Cod in springtime can be remarkably benign. The sea may be
rough and the winds can blow but the Cape seems to have its own
microclimate as if it sticks out of Virginia rather than Massachusetts.
And as most of the tourists are still gone and the traffic hasn't
built up you can actually get
there from here.
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The items in the shops are still priced for locals because the fatted
tourist calves haven't come back yet. The Brewster Store always remains
open for its locals, of course, and the little tea rooms in Brewster,
Sandwich
and Mashpee Commons never stopped serving afternoon tea all winter.
It's still a time when some of the old inns and restaurants with their
fireplaces aglow look like scenes from Currier & Ives. You can
still get a table faster at classics like the Old
Yarmouth Inn and, five miles away, the Beehive in Sandwich.The
Old Yarmouth Inn has patrons who will drive all the way from Boston
just for dinner. A meal there tells you why. |
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The promise of lobsters image is starting
to return to the Cape as spring beckons and the small airfield on
the road to Osterville is beginning to see more business.
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That said, the far cape still seems bit of
a cold, dull drag even though the roads are still quiet. The Upper
Cape, the part closest to Boston, has more than enough to fascinate
visitors including the required churches and cemeteries. Interesting
townships like Falmouth and delightful villages such as Sandwich are
right there, a mere hour and a half from Bean Town. |
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Falmouth, a township of 33,000 people sprawling
over 44 square miles, is a genuine Cape community. Its attractions
for tourists are its 68 miles of coastline with its famous Nobska
Lighthouse, its six golf courses (out of the 36 on the Cape) and,
since it was laid out in 1749, its historical significance. But it's
on the road to nowhere. You don't just pass through. You have to know
why you want to go there. |
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"We're a tranquil destination," says Kelley Pratt, president
of its Chamber of Commerce, "the real America with the volume
turned down. We have no theme or water parks, we're just a functioning
place where people live, have jobs and relate to each other. In our
pubs you'll find our fishermen sharing a drink with some of the 12
Nobel Prizewinners from the Oceanographic Institution in Wood's Hole
next door. We're a community." |