NORTHERN CALIFORNIA:
ROOMS FOR ROMANTICS

Story and photography
by Margaret & Eric Anderson

To some Northern California is brightly colored hot air balloons drifting over vineyards, and purple grapes hanging heavily from russet gold leaves. To some it's rough-barked redwoods standing tall like sentries turning the sky green and the clock back 2,000 years.

To others it's aircraft rides, art galleries, jazz festivals, craft shops, spas and mud baths. To many it's that place below the Golden Gate Bridge where cobblestones, cable cars, fishing piers, Victorian houses and stouthearted people join together to form San Francisco -- the indestructible city.

But to us, San Diegans, Northern California means gray skies, morning fog, boiling surf and welcome rain And whales, barking seals, fishing boats, majestic fields decorated with sheep and cliffs that rear up from the edge of a sea that's never in repose -- a real land full of real people. As exiled Scots, we are reminded of home.

A caveat for those who know their way around our state but have never been north, this is not California; it's not even Oregon This is a strange hybrid heaven, a mixture of the wilds of Ireland, the remoteness of Nova Scotia and maybe even the quaintness of Vermont 40 years ago. Visitors will find other parallels with Vermont.

The North Coast is not like Southern California where we have to fill their tanks twice a day to get to and from work This is human-sized terrain where distance doesn't dominate. This is a place of small villages, country stores, sawmills and maybe even marijuana fields.

Its folk have been fishermen and loggers then flower people and artists. Now they are farmers and innkeepers, the latter enjoying the absence of competition from the major hotel chains and, as a result, lodgings north of San Francisco and the meals they offer seem overpriced.

Yet there's a gentle style and a 19th century charm to this part of the state that transcends any dismay at cost. They go about their business as if nobody could really be interested in them, quite unselfconsciously and delightfully dour. But they're authentic: what you see is what you get.

 

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