RHODE ISLAND'S TREASURE:
ADRIAN BLOCK'S ISLAND

Story and photography
by Eric Anderson


There are 44 eating and drinking establishments so visitors can find their own favorites, from the diner, Bethany's, at the little airport to the 100 year-old Atlantic Inn where Bill Clinton famously dined as president. Locals suggest a New England breakfast at the 1661 Inn, lunch on the porch of the Spring House, the oldest and largest inn on the island, and a cocktail at sunset on the patio of the Oar Restaurant -- then dinner like Bill and Hillary at the Atlantic Inn. If you want a picnic lunch next day collect your groceries beside the Oar at the Block Island Boat Basin Ship's Store; there it seemingly costs less.

Although the island is easy to get to by either the hi-speed 30-minute ferry (877-733-9425 www.islandhispeedferry.com) or the regular 50-minute ferry (860-442-7891 www.blockislandferry.com) on some summer weekends expect trouble finding a bed. However, many homes are set up as Bed and Breakfasts and there are countless choices.

The gambrel-roofed section of the Surf Inn in Old Harbor was built in 1873 as the home of a local doctor but the pace there can be hectic in high season. Lucinda Morrison, who with husband David owns the Old Town Inn (401-466-5958 www.OldTownInnBI.com), says, sometimes if she drives into town and finds a ferry has just pulled in, she'll do a U-turn back to the peace of her inn. Built in 1825 it was a village store before they completely restored it three years ago. There's peace and quiet also at Payne's Harbor View Inn, (401-466-5758 www.paynesharborviewinn.com). Carole Payne is the innkeeper; her great grandfather was the local doctor a century ago. You can't keep doctors out of Block Island's story. The leader of the 16 Baptist families who bought it from Massachusetts in 1660 for 400 pounds was a doctor in the colony, John Alcock, MD.

In this place the original settlers found peace. It was, as local poet Lisa Silverberg later wrote, a place where "Time's slowed to catch its breath."


SECOND OPINIONS
Block Island, sometimes called "the Bermuda of the North," has, like Bermuda with its two-wheeled traffic, a fair share of moped and bicycle accidents. The two local physicians, Peter Baute, MD and Janice Miller, MD, deal with this (and incidentally see more than 30 new cases of Lyme disease a year). They wish visitors would follow the rules better: don't speed, keep in single file, wear a helmet and employ common sense.

Dr. Baute feels the island life has made medicine more enjoyable for him and Dr. Miller says she can't believe she gets paid to work and live here. Asked their favorite restaurants, Dr. Baute replies, "Eli's, it's in Old Harbor, great food and wait staff," and Dr. Miller says "The Beachhead. It's perfect for kids and one of the few restaurants to stay open year-round."

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