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BAJA WHALE WATCHING: |
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Three particular colonies captivate the passengers on this Baja
trip: the northern elephant seals of West San Benito Island; the
California sea lions of San Pedro Martir Island; and the sea lions
of the craggy cliffs of Los
Although the latter display is an exciting example of how close
the 100-ton ship can get to some of the rocky islets in the Sea
of Cortez, and several hundred barking sea lions put on quite a
performance, it's the northern elephant seals who win the acting
accolades. |
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 After a mile-long saunter across the desolate island, the passengers look down on a rocky beach where 20 sleek seals lie in the sun with their newborn calves. The bull of this harem swims offshore. Male elephant seals don't establish a territory; they merely maintain dominance over a group of females. Their method apparently works: 4 percent of the males participate in 80 percent of the mating. |
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The bull paddles lazily in the sun, but a young male attempts to slip in amongst the females. The bull is outraged. He comes out of the water, a menacing 8,000 pounds and, rearing up to show his height -- adult males grow to 20 feet long -- sends the intruder on his way. The bull grunts and roars through that strange pendulous proboscis that hangs into his mouth, then returns to his swimming; another performance in the great parade is over. |
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But shows need singers; who better in the
spectacle of Baja than the birds. They don't all sing. The shearwaters
swoop down on the waves like trapeze artists; the frigate birds wheel
in the skies like ballet dancers; the boobies brood on sun-scorched
ledges like Shakespearean performers preparing soliloquies; and the
Bonaparte gulls float lazily on the water like absent-minded actors
who have forgotten their lines. |
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Those are the memories of Baja. Those and seaport villages like San Carlos, where shrimp boats bustle in the sun, the doctor's office is always open and a little girl -- like any the world over -- plays with her cat. The approach by sea to Land's End at the tip of Baja. The developing resorts of Cabo San Lucas, dragged, at the tip of Baja, into the 21st century by sport fishermen seeking marlin and hedonists chasing golden tans. The famous pelican of Cabo who is said to be the town mayor! A picnic on the beach at Isla Partida when we came ashore, as always, in the inflatable Zodiacs. And the beach city of La Paz, with Jose Luis Gonzalez and his Mariachi Superior Band welcoming Lindblad's little group to the capital of the Province of Baja South. |
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| But, always, the whales. | |
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